Monday, September 3, 2012

Microbiomes and More

I have long known that bacteria living in the digestive systems of human beings play an extremely important role in the digestion and absorption of food.  I sometimes wondered idly, whether these bacteria actually thought of my colon as their “world” -- whether they played, studied, worked, married and reproduced within my gut, with absolutely no awareness of me as a larger entity housing them.  Anytime I took an antibiotic to take care of some infection, these bacteria probably wondered at this new cataclysmic “world event” that was annihilating them in large numbers.  When I had a bout of food poisoning, they probably thought there was a tsunami taking place in their world.  A bout of acute acidity and biliousness probably had them shaking their heads at each other over the changes in the environment (“global acidity”), and the increasing fickleness of the weather.

I took my thinking a step further and wondered whether a set of bacteria actually adopted other bacteria (or yeasts or viruses or bacteriophages, or whatever) as pets and / or workers.  Or set up armies and fought with each other – with the result that I felt I was ailing, without quite understanding why.  Did they set up hierarchies and compete with one another for various resources – the stuff I often unthinkingly stuffed in my mouth as food?  When I drank water, did they wonder at the sudden downpour and when I was dehydrated, did they speak of the drought?

From here, it was only a small step further to wonder whether we (human beings, and this world in its entirety) also exist within some other organism and play an intrinsic role in the well being of that larger organism?  Is this what is meant, at a very literal level, when spiritual leaders tell us we are all one, and the well being of one is only to be found in the well being of all?

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Jungle Tales from Ranthambhore (Koi Movement Hai?)

“Are you out of your mind?  It’ll be burning hot in Rajasthan at this time of the year”.  And then as a grudging after thought – “But it’ll be a good time for spotting wildlife, because there’ll be little water and they will all come to whatever few waterholes there are”.  This was the usual response when I mentioned to anyone that I was going to Ranthambhore from June 21-25, 2012.  As it turned out – yes, it was sweltering hot; yes, it took me 2 safaris to get acclimatized to the heat and the wild rides in the Gypsy; yes, my ribs and backside were sore from being hit against the metal frame of the Gypsy; yes, my tummy was a little unhappy with the anything goes kind of food I put into it; and yes, I was sleep deprived.  But ……. It was a great trip in every way I could think of.


We were three of us, all considered mad by general standards.  We were there for 3 days, from a Thursday late morning to a Sunday late afternoon.  We went on the maximum possible number of jeep safaris in that time, which was 6 – 1 each dawn and dusk.  We had great sightings of birds which I never even knew existed – their colours stood out in their richness against the stark branches of the dhonk trees, even as the deer (sambhars, chitals so numerous, we both became blasé at the sight of each other) blended right into the jungle.  And in 6 outings, we had 4 sightings of tigers …. Each sighting better than the last!

We reached Sawai Madhopur on Thursday morning, around 10:30 am, and by around 11:00 we were at the hotel and enjoying the cool of the AC rooms.  We cleaned up and somehow managed to stay awake till lunch, and then happily gave in to the temptation to nap, with alarms set for 3:00 pm.  The Gypsy was scheduled to come between 3:15 and 3:30 to take us for our first safari.  Padmini, Soonoo’s friend, a practicing advocate at Sawai Madhopur and the daughter of Fateh Singh Rathore, the Project Director who conceptualized and set up Ranthambhore as a tiger sanctuary, was joining us for this first trip.  We were lucky on this first trip, as the four of us had the Gypsy to ourselves.  We were assigned Zone 2, but our maverick driver decided to make a quick round of Zone 3 before heading to Zone 2.

Accordingly, we headed to the lake at Zone 3, with me getting excited at the sight of sambhars so close to the Gypsy that we could have almost touched them  and spotted deer (Chitals) crossing the road barely 15 feet ahead of our vehicle.   Langurs were everywhere, many with babies clinging to their tummies.  Sometimes, we’d see the baby getting adventurous and being either taught or disciplined by mama langur.  There were 2 typical sitting styles of the langur that really caught my fancy – one style was to sit on a flat surface with the forearms resting on the knees in a pose that somehow invariably reminded me of my paternal grandfather (not sure he’d have been flattered by the resemblance).  The second common pose was where the langur would sit at the base of a tree, with all four paws touching the tree trunk – not clutching the tree trunk, just in contact.  In this pose, the hind legs would be slightly raised off the ground and I was convinced that the langur was somehow tapping into the energy vibes of the tree by sitting thus.  I told Mehroo and Soonoo I wanted to try out the pose myself and see if I felt anything, but was hampered by the fact that all the really good trees (lovely, lovely banyans) were all in the jungle where we couldn’t get down from the Gypsy.



On this first trip to the jungle, I was introduced to the Treepai and the Drongo and the Indian Pitta – took me a while to learn to spot this last, but I then became quite expert at spotting the flash of blue and then figuring out whether it was a White Breasted Kingfisher or the Pitta.  I soon got blasé about all such sights though I still felt a thrill when I was the first to spot something.  Mohammed, our guide, had an excellent eye, and was great at coaching us to spot whatever he’d seen.

 We then came to the lake where there were some sambhars wading at a shallow end, as were various kinds of migratory birds like herons and storks.  Both Mohammed and Rayees (our driver) were looking around intently, eyes screwed up against the sun blazing away at 4 pm.  Gazing towards a shady tree on the banks, Rayees said “Doorbeen dena” (Give me the binoculars) …. I passed mine to him and he raised it to his eyes without once moving his eyes from whatever he was looking at.  All of us held our breaths till he finally pronounced the verdict – there’s a tiger sleeping under the tree.  We all screwed up our eyes and looked, then tried through the binoculars, and could spot nothing.  Until Mohammed coached us – look at the dappled spot of sunlight under the tree ….. well, it’s not sunlight – it’s the tiger’s belly as she lies there next to the lake edge!  I was thrilled when I finally spotted her.  See if you can spot her in these photos!



Mohammed and Rayees told us she was T17, aka Sundari, aka Rakhi Sawant – “kyunki woh kissee ke saath chali jaathi hai – aaj isske saath, kal usske saath” (Because she goes with anyone at all – today she’s with this male, tomorrow with that one)!  We couldn’t stop giggling over that, though Soonoo insisted she hated the name and Sundari was not “like that”.  She’d mated with various tigers over the years it was true, but never had any cubs till 3 months back.  According to the locals, that was because until the last mating, she’d had a radio collar on, and that was somehow interfering with her biological system and preventing conception.  That far off sighting was a wonderful start to my first visit to Ranthambhore, and we then made our way out of Zone 2 and to our assigned zone



We traversed through the most beautiful rock faces, where the layers of rock looked almost like they were bound together by banyan roots.  I would have loved going rock climbing in such terrain, but of course, nobody, including the driver and guide were allowed to get down from the jeep – the penalty being that both of them would lose their licenses if we were caught outside the jeep!


We went through some steep paths that seemed to be the ramparts of some ancient fort and had a great bird’s eye view of the dhonk forest spread out beneath us.  The dhonk tree has a strange beauty all its own – it has a short trunk and has thin branches that get progressively thinner as the branches spread out.  The overall effect, when viewed in totality, is a lacy, gossamer effect.  And when you look at a jungle of dhonks, you suddenly realize that this ethereal looking branch actually ends up quite dense, and you cannot spot a sambhar or a chital or even a neelgai standing in its midst until it moves!



As we passed various streams, we saw a wild hare drinking busily, a mongoose going busily about his work, a sand grouse wriggling its bottom to wet her breast hair and cool off in the mud …. And none of them were really perturbed by our proximity!  And as dusk fell, and the setting sun glowed red through the gossamer dhonk branches, we saw a Stork billed Kingfisher, the largest kingfisher of all, sitting on a branch and pretty much posing for us, presenting 1st one profile and then the other.  We admired him for a while and then started to head out of the park and right near the exit, spotted a pair of Brown Fish Owls!  Unfortunately, my camera was just not sophisticated enough to capture the pictures of birds, and especially not in the failing light. 

This was my wonderful first introduction to the Ranthambhore jungle!  We left the jungle and accompanied Padmini to Maa Farm, where she lives with her mother.  I enjoyed a refreshing nimbu paani while the others had a cuppa, and we all enjoyed Padmini’s tales of her recent visit to Manila, where her sister lives with her husband and kids.  We were in splits at Padmini’s dramatics, and some of the choicest phrases and mannerisms became part of our secret code for the trip.  But we were pretty exhausted and by and by we drifted back to our hotel, Hammir, had dinner and crashed.  But only after setting the alarm for 4:15 am, so we could be ready for our next safari at 5:00 am next morning.

The next morning, 22nd, was great for birding.  We spotted baby crocs, a monitor lizard or two and birds whose names I’ve now forgotten.  Innumerable deer – sambhar, neelgai, chital.  Innumerable peacocks and peahens and juveniles.  Peacocks dancing with tail feathers spread in full glory, even with no peahen that we could spot.  I think that was the day we spotted the buzzard feasting on a piece of beehive that he’d got clutched in his talons as he sat high on a branch.  And the huge turtle half submerged in a lake, looking for all the world like a boulder.  Some of the guides have amazing eyes to spot such things from a moving jeep.  But I had not quite acclimated and with the clock edging towards 9 am and nothing to eat since getting up at 4 am, I started wilting.  Perhaps that is why I can’t quite remember anything spectacular that we spotted that morning.  I learnt after that though, and started carrying dehydrated fruit and nibbling the moment I felt my energy levels ebbing.  Guarding against dehydration I’d been doing from the start, now I started watching this as well.

Back to the hotel for breakfast, nap, lunch, nap (don’t recollect a bath that day, I think the nap took priority) and the evening safari.  This time, we had another guide and driver.  A youngster called Asok was our guide and the driver (whose name I don’t think I caught) was a gruff older guy.  He was a good spotter himself and would point out various birds to us, and then sarcastically congratulate Asok – “Good eye” – when Asok finally spotted it!  We were assigned Zone 5 and as we drove in, kept looking at the various birds and animals around.  And then we suddenly came upon a small manmade waterhole (Bhootkhora road to those who know Ranthambhore) with some 4 Gypsies clustered around it and there was a tiger cooling off in it, not 12 meters away from us.  Speculation was rife between our driver, guide and Soonoo.  Since we couldn’t see whether it was a male or a female, they thought this was one of the 2 motherless female cubs, 18 months old, who were being brought up by their father – an unusual event in the tiger species.

We must have waited there for something like an hour, with the tiger on alert and turning to face every new movement of a Gypsy.  I felt sorry for her – she wanted to relax in the water, kind of like lolling in a bathtub after a tiring day.  And here were a bunch of gawking tourists, just standing around and staring at her.  But all the pros were convinced she would move soon, and they were keen to identify her (they often have their own agendas like “T-so-and-so has not been spotted for a while, hope she’s not wounded or killed by poachers …. Be on the lookout for him”) so we waited for something like an hour.  There were sambhars walking around just about 20 meters behind us, seemingly unconcerned, or maybe unaware, of the tiger in the vicinity.




 By and by, a sambhar felt thirsty and headed for the waterhole.  He sensed danger however, and walked very cautiously, stopping at every step to sniff the air and keeping one front hoof raised to stamp a warning at the first sign of danger.  The tiger too came on full alert and stood up in the water, watching the sambhar unblinkingly.  But the sambhar had spotted her and gave its characteristic bark-like warning and walked on by.  Tiring of trying to outwait the tourists and the sambhar, the tiger finally decided to come out of the water and lie down in the shade of the jungle.



To our great appreciation, and the clicking of umpteen cameras, she emerged wet (and as Mehroo put it – gundoo (mucky)) and strode her majestic stride to the jungle, where she sat down in the grass and all but disappeared from our view.  We knew where she was sitting, we could see her and see that she was watching us, but if we took our eyes off her for a second, we’d then have to spend the next 10 seconds trying to spot her again.  The camouflage is unbelievable – you need to see it to believe it.  And now I believe what I’ve read before – you can pass 5 feet from a tiger, the tiger will be sitting there watching you, and you will not spot him/her.  Knowing the limitations of my camera, I didn’t even try to photograph her at this stage.

Having had a good look at her, and her swollen teats, Soonoo and our guide and driver pronounced that she was T17 again – Sundari of the 3 month old cubs.  She’d left her great big lake of the previous day to come and bathe in this tiny manmade waterhole for some inconceivable reason.  I’m sure she thought to herself – “kal sone nahin diya, aaj nahne nahin diya” (yesterday, they didn’t let me sleep, today they’re not letting me bathe).

The jeeps all quickly dispersed in different directions after this (obviously some of us were in zones that had not been assigned to us, since only a few jeeps are assigned per zone and we were 5 clustered around her).  We headed out of the jungle – anything after this would have been an anticlimax, though Mehroo kept clamouring for a bear sighting or a leopard sighting (considered the rarest of all).  I was just amazed at my luck – having been repeatedly prepared by Soonoo for no tiger sightings, I’d seen 2 tigers in 2 days (or more accurately, 1 tiger twice in 2 days). 

We returned to the hotel, had a bit of a wash up and headed to Maa Farm, where we’d been invited for dinner.  After enjoying the cool breeze and starry sky and Padmini’s dramatics for a while, we headed in for dinner, where we experienced typical Rajasthani ghar-ka-khana (home food) with lots of achaar (pickle) made by Mammaji (Padmini’s mother) herself.  By the time dinner came to an end, we were dropping on our feet and toddled across the road to our hotel and tumbled into bed with the alarm set for 4:15 am. 

Saturday morning …. We were past the midpoint of our trip, having done 3 safaris and with 3 more ahead.  Today, we had Mohammed as our guide and a driver whose name escapes my memory.  We were again assigned to the same zone as the previous day, but since we’d not gone past the waterhole where we spotted Sundari that day, we decided that was no bad thing.  So off we went, with Mohammed again showing his amazing spotting skill, spotting the head of a snake barely peeping out of his tree hole, or a monitor lizard sunning itself on the ground totally camouflaged … .and all this spotted from a speeding Gypsy bouncing over the rutted paths! 

That was another ride where I have no clear memory of spotting anything spectacular.  We saw quite a few woolly necked storks, dancing peacocks … every trip was a joy of discovery even if what we saw was not a great sighting.  That was the day we planned to visit Divya’s shop, Dhonk and then accompany Padmini to Khem Vilas, where her brother ran an extremely swanky and exclusive hotel for tourists.  So after a quick breakfast, we headed across the road to Dhonk and made our very reasonably priced purchases.  Divya kindly agreed to deliver the bags to Maa Farm, from where we could collect it after the evening safari, and we headed into Padmini’s car (she’d come to Dhonk to collect us) to go to Khem Vilas for lunch.


We cooled off with nimbu paani and admired the lotus pond and spa with Padmini before we heard her other guests arrive.  She went off to welcome them, while one of the hotel managers continued to show us around the cottage accommodations.  We all admired the open air bathroom most of all – the fittings were absolutely modern, and it was open to the sky.  With trees all around, you could enjoy an open air shower if you so wished!  We then came back to the main building and sat around chatting waiting for Padmini’s other guests to arrive and the social chit chat to be gotten out of the way before lunch could be served

By and by, we joined the others at the formal dining table, where there were some 10-12 guests, a district judge, some magistrates and other senior court officials, all sitting stiffly around the immaculately set table.  They turned to look at the three of us enter – casually dressed for the jungle, me with my loose pants drooping from my waist like some kind of pajama!  Too bad – nobody had told me to pack for a formal sit down lunch when coming to Ranthambhore!  Padmini was least bothered by such trivia and we enjoyed a wonderful typical Rajasthani, rather heavy lunch followed by dessert.  The judge left, after which the formality reduced somewhat.  Padmini showed us to a room where the 3 of us could nap till it was time for our evening safari – both she and Divya were joining us.  We lolled around and dozed for a while, and then Padmini joined us, having seen off the last of her guests.

After some confusion about whether the Gypsy would come to Khem Vilas to pick us up or we had to go to the main gate of the sanctuary to catch the jeep, we headed for our second last safari.  We again had our maverick driver Rayees, this time with no guide.  We were assigned zone 4 and we headed into the jungle.  We visited one water body after another, since everyone was convinced we’d spot something momentous on this trip.  Suddenly Padmini froze (we had paused by a stream) and told Rayees to cut the engine, she’d heard a sambhar call from the 7 o’clock – 8 o’clock position.


We all froze and then Rayees headed back the way we’d come, up a cliff path to peer over the top at a water body at Bakhola - the junction of Zone 4 and 5.  Padmini kept insisting – “sambhar kabhi false call nahin detha” (the sambhar never gives a false call).  And appropriately enough, it was Padmini, the true daughter of Fateh Singh Rathore, who was the first to spot her – she was lying on her side under the shade of the trees, as we peered at her from the cliff above, barely some 20-30 feet above her and barely some 5 -10 meters lateral distance!  The angle was pretty terrible for all of us except Mehroo sitting next to Rayees.  She literally had a front seat view.  I did click some photos of T41 as she was identified, but she was hard to spot without a whole lot of tree branches, not to mention our jeep itself, coming in my line of sight.  We admired her for a while, as she slept on, periodically waking up to blink at us and then go to sleep again, and then headed off.

The light was beautiful, and we clicked some beautiful pictures of the dhonk trees – every so often, we’d come across a stretch of dhonks that were bursting into leaf – the most refreshing shade of green.  And with the sun shining across the tops, the effect was truly beautiful.  This was the trip where we saw a colony of painted storks nesting on the branches of a tree – great to see these huge, somewhat ungainly looking birds, perched elegantly up on the tree.  And as we drove out, Divya spotted a piece of beehive that had fallen to the ground, raked by the nail marks of a bear.  We picked up a piece and felt it and sniffed at it (rather nice sweet smell to it) before we threw it away again.  In the fading light, we drove out with Padmini scanning the jungle hill sides on either side, hoping to spot a leopard, and Mehroo telling Rayees “mereko bhaloo dekhna hai” (I want to see a bear) but no luck.  And with that, we were almost at the end of our trip, with just one safari left the next morning

We didn’t spend long socializing that day, and headed to the hotel for some quiet time with fresh lime sodas before dinner and bed.  The next morning, I had no great hopes of any spectacular sightings, since all our tiger sightings  till now had been in the evenings, with the mornings tending to be uneventful.  We had a guide and driver whom we’d never had before, and who were unknown to Soonoo as well.  It appeared as if they were the “nothing but a tiger will do” variety, as they sped from one water body to another in Zone 4, briefly pausing to scan for a tiger before saying “chalo” (let’s go) and heading off.  All of us (the 3 of us + the other party of 3 jungle lovers from Jaipur) were getting somewhat exasperated with them.


By and by, we came to a water body at Berda and some sambhar and chitals grazing nearby.  The sambhars were periodically going on alert, but we were not sure whether it was because of us, or something else.  Suddenly, a langur gave a call.  The sambhars were on high alert and we all of looked around keenly in the direction they were looking till we decided it had been a false call (the sambhar had not called, had only raised his tail and stopped grazing).  We headed off, meeting a Cantor (open air bus) and the drivers and guides exchanged notes.  Just then, the langur called again.  The driver and guide unilaterally did a u-turn and came back to our earlier spot, insisting there had to be a tiger around.  After looking for a long time, they finally spotted movement.  The tiger was hidden behind a tree not 20 feet from where we’d been parked both this time and the previous time!





The driver drove to get a better angle behind the tree, and there he was,  with his fresh sambhar kill, so intent on satisfying his hunger, he couldn’t care less about us.  For about 15 or 30 mins (time is always so relative, who knows how long it actually was), we watched him feast on the sambhar, tearing it open from its asshole to pull out the soft innards and eat.  At one point, he stood up to turn the sambhar over and get better access to its soft underbelly.  For Mehroo (for whom this was the 6th or 8th visit), this was a first – she had never before seen a tiger with a fresh kill.  We were all thrilled at the sighting – it was a really close look, barely 20 feet away and as close to stark nature as one can get.  After some time, we decided to leave – the driver and guide suggested we move to the waterhole and wait for him to come there to slake his thirst after eating, but they agreed with Soonoo that that would probably be something like an hour away and we decided against it.



So we left T6 to his sambhar meal (not quite the sambhar shaadam of the Tamilians!) and drove away.  Having shown us a tiger, the guide and driver were more relaxed now, and willing to slow down for bird sightings and sightings of “lesser” animals.  As we drove out of the jungle, we got a close look at a most majestic neelgai and then, on the main path of the sanctuary, next to a nullah, were a family of chitals posed all on a row …. Unfortunately, by the time I could get out my camera to take advantage of the composition, they moved and we drove on.  But it was a good way to end the last safari on my first trip to Ranthambhore.  I knew I was (am) hooked, and this was not goodbye but au revoir!


Saturday, June 16, 2012

Tigers, Temples and Treks in Thailand


Sunday, June 3, 2012 – a red letter day – it was the day I was scheduled to visit the Tiger Temple at Kanchanabhuri in Thailand.  It had been in my mind ever since my first trip to Thailand, but every earlier trip, I’d gone there on a packed work schedule, and now at last, my manokamna (the unvoiced wish of my mind) was being fulfilled.  K. Bob was coming for me at 7:00 am, so at 6:00 am, I decided to head out to one of the 24 hour restaurants I’d spotted in the neighbourhood.  With my mind totally focused on choosing between the Taco joint and the Diner, I walked on oblivious to my surroundings.  The Diner smelt of cigarette smoke, so I ordered an omelette and toast with orange juice at the counter and went and sat in the outdoor dining space.

And then for the first time, I became aware of my surroundings …. The outdoor dining space shared by all the eating joints in the vicinity, was full of people who’d been carousing all night.  So in the midst of scantily clad, heavily made-up girls eating soupy noodles and guys chugging beer with French fries, I sat in shorts and t-shirt, eating my omelette and toast!

With an inward laugh at the incongruity of the start, I met K. Bob and we left for Kanchanbhuri.  It was a good 2.5 – 3 hour drive, towards the Thailand – Myanmar border.  K. Bob very sweetly changed the Thai music to which he’d been listening, and put on an MP3 with an inexhaustible supply of old English songs.  So happily humming, foot-hand tapping, head bopping and tunelessly singing along, I enjoyed the nostalgia of hearing songs which I’d not heard in probably 30 years or more.

As per instructions K. Prapai had given him, he took me to the war cemetery, where WWII soldiers who’d died (many during the construction of the infamous bridge on the river Kwai) had been buried.  Similar in look, feel, atmosphere to Arlington, though on a smaller scale.  The graves were interspersed with well kept rose bushes and a well maintained lawn.  What caught my eye were the Jewish and Christian graves next to each other. 

I read a couple of headstones and almost wept at the sight of the graves of kids in their 20s. It was a relief to see someone who’d died at 42 - everything is relative.





From the war cemetery, we went to the bridge on the River Kwai …. Since K.Bob’s English was limited, I couldn’t ask him any questions … could only read the legend mounted at the site, but I suspect there was more than 1 bridge built on the River Kwai and I’m not too sure that this was The One.  Somehow, I’d always thought that the atrocities had happened in what was then known as Burma, and here this was in Thailand, admittedly near the border.


 Anyway, in the sweltering sun, we walked the tracks and stood by the side of the tracks (amazingly close) as an old engine chugged its way past us carrying waving tourists along the bridge that was probably no more than a 100 mts long, if that.  K. Bob took some nice pictures of me, and we left.  But not before I stopped to buy myself a hat … a traditional hat, rather than one of the pretty dainty ones that look the same in every country.  It pleased me tremendously when, a couple of days later K. Prapai took one look at it and exclaimed – “Oh, I remember my grandfather wearing a hat like this!”





From the Bridge, we again took to the road and soon we were at the Tiger Temple.  With my heart brimming with expectations, we stopped while I posed for a picture in the gaping tiger’s mouth that made up the entrance.   


Heading up the driveway, we finally came to the place where the ticket counter, restaurant etc was, only to discover the temple only opens at 12 noon.  It was 10 am when we reached.


Back to the car, and we headed to the nearby Sai Yok waterfall.  It was not a very big or forceful one, but very pleasant, with lots of interconnected pools.  Since it was a holiday, there were lots of families there, most  with young kids.  The kids were all swimming while the parents mostly sat around and watched.  I sat and watched for a while, letting the peace of the place seep into my soul.  The lady who rented out rubber tubes was curious about me – probably the only person there who was without any kids, or even friends, in tow.  Luckily for her, after a while, the lady sitting next to me started making conversation in English and they realized I was passing the time till the Tiger Temple opened.  So they pointed out to me how I could climb up the waterfall if I so wished (in clear contravention of the signs posted around that warned people against climbing the rocks as they were slippery).

Of course, I had to try that and it was very pleasant …. Through a thin layer of slow flowing water, I found non-slippery footholds and made my way to the next level up in the waterfall.  And lo and behold, K Bob was already up there, ready to click photographs of me enjoying the waterfall!  After a while, we made our way down again and started wandering around, each by ourselves.  Around 11:30, I made my way to the car, where I found Bob examining a map mounted on the roadside, showing all the spots in the area that were of tourist interest. 


Pantheon of Indian Gods

Dhruvika had recommended a visit to a cave full of stalagmites and stalactites that she had visited, which she’d said was on the way to the Tiger Temple.  So spotting a Lava Cave on the map, I pointed it out to K Bob and got his confirmation that it was nearby.  So back we hopped into the car and to the Lava Cave.  That was a bit of a disappointment – the formations were there, but there was nobody around to show the best angle from which to look at it, or to point out its resemblance to anything.  There were notices around, but all in Thai, so I had to fall back on my own imagination.  I decided to call the first one I saw – Pantheon of Indian Gods and then felt I spotted a Ganapathi somewhere else – too far for my flash to be effective, so I couldn‘t capture it on camera. 



By then it was past 12, and we headed back to the Tiger Temple, where we got the tickets.  I changed from my shorts to the long pants I’d carried, on the hunch that shorts may not be allowed in the temple (and sure enough – the notices there specified no sleeveless clothes, no shorts and skirt / dress length enough to cover the knees).  Also, the women were not to try to speak to the monks!

As we entered the tiger temple, I noticed a procession of a tiger accompanied by a monk walking to our left, moving towards us and followed by a procession.  I was so excited – I asked K Bob whether I could join the procession and at his nod, started to run towards them.  A yell stopped me in my tracks – a volunteer was waving at me pointing out the path I was supposed to follow.  And then I saw – there was a whole bunch of people waiting their turn to join the procession behind the next tiger.  There were 2 tigers, sitting tethered under a tree near where our queue had been formed.  The volunteers were squirting water from a hole in a bottled water bottle into their mouths, and the tigers were gratefully (one assumes) drinking it in the heat. 



As we waited for the next tiger to be walked, a deer of some kind came and examined all of us in the back of the line.  A lady got out a boiled candy to feed it, and the deer started snatching it out of her hand even before she could finish unwrapping it.  She had to pull the paper wrapping out of its mouth!  We were all laughing at the impatience and craving.  Meanwhile, I gave my camera to a volunteer and had her photograph the waiting tiger at close quarters – she did a very good job

Finally, the monk returned and we all got our instructions – the monk would walk with the tiger in front.  All of us would walk behind the monk in a line.  The person at the head of the line would step up behind the monk, stroke the tiger on his back and then step to the side, allowing the next person behind to do the same.  Umbrellas were to be closed so as not to spook the tiger.  We were to stay behind the monk at all times.  No self photography.  If we wanted to be photographed while stroking the tiger, we had to give our camera to the volunteer who would click the photo.  The tiger would spray trees as he passed – if we got into the way of the spray, we were not to scream and spook the tiger.  The locals considered it lucky to be sprayed thus, though it smelled quite strongly. 

By the time my turn came, we had almost reached the canyon (which is where the tigers were being taken) and none of the volunteers were around to click my photo.  I was quite disappointed, wondering “Is this all?  For this, I built up so much anticipation?”

With a vague sense of letdown I trailed along behind the tiger to see where he was being taken – down a hillside and round a rocky outcropping.  And as I rounded the second corner, I found some 10-12 tigers, each staked to the ground, sitting on the ground and calmly looking around.  There was an arrangement of benches in a covered area in front of this canyon, with a volunteer with a hand mike ready to address us all.  I found myself a place and as I settled down, I noticed – right in the middle of all the tigers, the monk who’d walked the tigers sat cross legged on the ground, with the head of a tiger in his lap as he caressed it and spoke in his ear!


The volunteer then announced the protocol – there were 2 formats that could be followed – you could be part of a group of 6 of your own choosing, and have the privilege of a photograph with 1 of the group sitting with this 250 Kg tiger’s head in his lap, while the other 5 clustered behind.  This would cost 1,000 Baht (at a little under Rs 2 per Thai Baht).  The other option was a free one – you would be taken individually to pet some of the tigers on their backs only, while a volunteer clicked your photo using your camera.  I went for the free option, and enjoyed stroking 2 adult tigers and 3 cubs of around 6 months each.  Two of the cubs were tethered close together and were probably siblings.  As I petted the one on the right, the other one perhaps felt neglected and walked away in a sulk even as I tried to lure him back with sweet talk.




After petting the tigers, I also wanted to visit the Buddha temple in the complex, so I made my way there and admired the idol and the photographs adorning the walls.


Having done that, I was ready to leave and went out to find K. Bob. 





Unable to keep the smile off my face, I relaxed in the car as K. Bob drove in his usual competent way, with the music playing on.  Gradually, I became aware that we seemed to be returning by a different route from the one by which we’d come.  I questioned K Bob, and he told me he was taking me to Erawan Falls.  I tried to tell him, I was thrilled with the Tiger Temple visit and there was no need for any further sightseeing, but he’d received his instructions from K. Prapai and he was going to follow them!

And so, we reached Erawan Falls where as we walked towards the falls we met hordes of people on their way back, complete with kids, picnic baskets, wet swimming gear and accessories.  Wonderingly, I walked on until we came to a map that showed how there were multiple waterfalls at different levels and how far you had to climb to get to each one.  Gamely, K Bob and I climbed on, each trying to outdo the other all the way to Level 4.  There was a big pool at Level 4, with lots of teenage kids playing in the water.  There were more kids perched on the big rock from where the water fell, and every few minutes, one of them would relax the grip of his backside on the rock and slide down the rock to land in the water with a big splash.  It seemed like great fun, but I had neither the courage, nor the right company, nor the swimming clothes to attempt any such derring-do.

Having rested there for a while, K Bob indicated to me that I was free to climb on if I wished, while he waited for me right there.  I told him I’d had enough too (the park authorities had warned us that the park closed at 5:30 and we had to get out before then, and we were both quite tired after a long day) and we could head out.  Once back in the car, I told him, let’s head back to Bangkok, no more sightseeing.  I could make out he was tired and when I asked him, he told me his knees were aching from the long hours of driving.  But he still wanted to take me to Srinakarin Dam.  I told him – I have no money left (having exhausted all the Thai currency cash I was carrying, and there being no currency exchanges at any of the places we’d visited that day, nor credit card transactions).  He assured me it was free, and the view from there was beautiful and it would barely take us half an hour. 

That was our last stop for the day – truly a breathtaking sight – the dam on one side and the lake created by the dam on the other.  Gushing water on the one side, and an absolutely calm lake on the other.  Having looked around, and posed for the mandatory picture (K. Bob would demand “camera-camera” from me at each stop), we took off and then it was non-stop back to Bangkok.  A lovely day, which I ended with 28 Thai Baht in my pocket when I tallied my cash before changing some money so I could eat dinner!


Thank you, K. Raj, K. Prapai and K. Bob, for a truly memorable trip!

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Future Trends
Where Humanity is Headed and All That

I watch current events with fascination and as is my habit, try to discern patterns and assign causality to them. And it occurred to me, that I am gradually forming a view on how the world and humanity is evolving through these events. So let me share with you some of my thoughts and ideas – it sure would be fun to read this after 20-30-50 years (if any of us is still alive then) and see how I did!

The frequency of economic downturns is increasing and at each instance, it comes to light that it was human greed, self-centeredness and lack of scruples ("I don’t care what happens after 1 or 5 or 15 years, as long as this intrinsically worthless product gets me my bonus this year") that triggered the whole slide. And then, a bunch of these self-same unscrupulous people get together and decide a bail out is required to prevent the whole edifice from crumbling. But where are the funds coming from for the bail out - it is all worthless printed paper! And so, my first prediction – the frequency and intensity of financial crises will increase, until the mandarins, propelled by public outcries, are forced to accept that bail outs are unacceptable. And so there will be a huge economic meltdown

Organizations and whole industries will go out of business, putting people out of work on a large scale. With this meltdown, there will be a rash of suicides for sure, since people have lost inner resilience with the easy living norms to which they have gotten accustomed. But for those who find the inner strength, there will be a tightening of belts and a return to a simpler and more moralistic way of life. Conspicuous consumption will reduce, with the result that the global carbon footprint will reduce due to a demand led reduction in manufacturing, thereby achieving what the efforts of environmentalists could not achieve in all these years of agitations and scare mongering

The meltdown will in turn accelerate a large scale shift towards spirituality (as distinct from religion and especially religious fundamentalism). There is already an increasing trend towards spirituality. I first noticed this way back in 2003, when I observed young 20 year olds participating in a Vipassana retreat. Subsequently, I noticed similar youngsters at spiritual discourses, Art of Living and other similar events, yoga and alternative life style choices etc. The economic meltdown I envision will accelerate this process and as a critical mass of humanity chooses to live in harmony and love, the wounds of greedy self-centeredness will begin to heal

How will this living in harmony and love manifest itself? I predict that there will be a return to small self-sufficient communities sustained by local farmers for food and following a largely barter, or barter-like, system. This thinking is inspired by my recent visit to Auroville, and I believe that may well be the model of the future. Suddenly, Mayawati’s proposal to split UP in 4 takes on a whole new dimension, even though that may not have been how she intended it!!!

In this model, food will be grown on small patches of ground, following the Fukuokan method of farming – minimal interference with nature while food is grown. For those unfamiliar with Fukuoka's principles of farming, this is way beyond organic farming. Locally grown food, following the seasons, will be consumed locally – good for the carbon footprint; good for health, since nature always produces what is suitable for the climate – heat producing foods in the cold (sarson ka saag and oranges were an intrinsic part of my childhood winters) and cooling fresh produce in the summer. Vegetarianism, and probably veganism, will be the norm. Processed foods will be either totally absent or minimal, since the processed food industry, along with all other large scale industries, will become a victim of the downturn and mass rejection of conspicuous consumption and environmentally detrimental industries.

As people turn to spirituality, there will be great interest in natural healing and hence, the focus of learning will shift from the subjects of today (science, finance etc.), to subjects dealing with the flow of energy in the cosmos and through our body. This would link up to yoga including meditation, pranayama, self-healing, as well as energy healing – reiki, aura healing, mudra therapy, crystal healing and the like – I am constrained by my own ignorance in this area and would dearly like to learn more on the subject. So I expect the “schools” of the future to teach children and adults these subjects, or possibly even embark on a voyage of discovery together. I wonder whether classes would comprise kids and adults all mixed up, as long as they’re on similar levels in their learning process – I would not be surprised at all

Houses will be simple structures, probably built collectively by the community, and using locally available materials. Again, since there would be hardly any industrialization, the use of mass produced construction material will be absent. Houses will be built of mud, stones and plants. I have a recurring vision of a house where all the walls are live bamboo plants and a thatch roof keeps out the rain! I hope I get to experiment with this in this lifetime

The purpose of life today, seems to be increasing material possessions. This will shift and the purpose of life will be to accelerate spiritual development. Various teachings, in schools and elsewhere, will be geared towards this. And it will manifest in the form of an increased rate of vibration of every individual .... until eventually, perhaps (as is speculated happened with the Mayans), we will no longer be visible at the frequencies our eyes are accustomed to seeing today

Does it sound like I am moving back to the pre-industrialized period? I wonder if my thinking is overly simplistic, but I truly believe that we have evolved as spiritual beings since the pre-industrialization period and that will make all the difference!

Monday, September 12, 2011

Sustainable Living


A couple of months back, I was talking (through email) to my friend Padma about some experiments I'd been conducting in fruit dehydration. Triggered by that, she forwarded me a mail from Auroville, that announced a workshop they were planning to conduct in September, titled "Exploring a Sustainable Future". I dithered over it for a while - sure, it was a subject that interested me - I'd done a fair amount of random reading on it; but it was not related to anything I had studied earlier, nor to any of my work experience. Was it an area where I wished to focus in the future, now that I was this gloriously free bird with no job? I did not know .....

Finally, I decided I did not have much to lose by attending it. In the worst case, I would have a chance to see Auroville and anyway, if Padma told me she'd attended it and found it good and thought I should participate, I was willing to trust her judgment on that. And so, registration was done, bookings were made and a journey happened ..... and therein lies a tale - or a blog!

The write-up on the workshop was quite unequivocal - during the workshop there would be no time to sight see or shop or do other things, so if we wished to do anything beyond workshop activities, we should plan on spending extra days and speak to Saravanan - the man on the spot - about assistance with arrangements. With due thought, I planned my arrival on the afternoon of September 3rd, for a workshop that was scheduled to start on the evening of September 4th, and departure on September 11th afternoon after the workshop ended on September 10th lunchtime. I thought 2 extra days would be plenty to fit in the extras I had in mind - mainly visits to Matri Mandir, the Ashram (the samadhi of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother) and some small shopping for gifts for friends

As luck would have it, I came down with a terrible cold on the 2nd. I arrived on 3rd with my eyes tearing, nose and chest congested .... not a good beginning. I arrived at Central Guest House (or CGH as it is called) and even in my miserable state, was uplifted by the magnificent banyan tree that greeted me.


I met Saravanan and he showed me to the room that would be home for the next one week. It
was right above his own residence. There was a wide verandah
outside and 3 rooms opening off the verandah. The best part was the beautiful view of treetops and a few mangalore tiled roofs from the verandah



After completing registration formalities, I had lunch in the canteen where I could hear 2 ladies at the next table discuss yoga and how yoga was a way of life and how it had been reduced to a set of asanas and there were schools that certified yoga teachers in a month. Felt too unwell to join in, but wrote to Jawahar then what I'd overheard and said looks like yoga follows me everywhere. I then fought to stay awake to go to the Visistor's Center at 2 pm where Saravanan had told me I would need to present myself to get a pass for a visit to Matri Mandir. After a rainy, gloomy Mumbai, I walked in blazing 1:45 pm sun at Auroville to the Visitor's Center.




The walk was not unpleasant despite the sun, because of the beautiful canopies and landscaping I walked through.


By and by, I reached the Visitor's Center and waited for the magical hour of 2 pm to strike, that I may ask for, and receive, the pass. Promptly at 2, the lady arrived and I presented myself to her with my request. There were no passes for tomorrow, I was told. The lady asked me how long I was there and advised me to get a pass for some weekday. But our workshop sessions were scheduled to start at 8:45 am and last till 9 pm each day, and Matri Mandir visiting hours were limited to 9-11 am. What was I to do?

Suddenly I thought to check my return ticket - yes - I was to leave Auroville only at around 12 noon or 1 pm on the following Sunday (11th) - visiting Matri Mandir that morning was an option ... and so, duly, I registered my name for a Matri Mandir visit 8 days in advance and secured my pass. That done, I set out for my return walk to the guest house, admiring the natural fencing along the way ....

.... and a chameleon sunning itself on a branch


Finally (just a 20 minute walk really, but it takes longer when you stop to watch ants soldiering on and chameleons blink their message at you), I wound along the last turn to the guest house

By then the cold had got me down and I read and wandered around, forcing myself to stay awake till dinner at 7 pm. Dinner was interesting - one of the ladies I'd overheard at lunch joined me and we had a most interesting dinner together. It was Jenniffer who had come to Aurville for a weekend visit, discovered this workshop was planned, and immediately decided to stay on and participate in the workshop. She was an architect who specialized in what she described as the use of sacred geometry in architecture (which itself led to an interesting conversation) and I had a most informative session over dinner. However, my feeling of unwell-ness was growing and noticing this, she offered to give me some healing. After barely 5 mins of directing healing energy into me (I had my eyes closed, so not much idea what exactly she did), we parted ways and I went to bed at something like 8:30 pm!

Next morning, I woke up feeling better but still heavy headed. Went for a walk before breakfast meandering around till 7 am and then headed for breakfast. Could still feel the weakness in my body and so decided to conserve my energy and rest the whole day, so I could be well enough to take advantage of the workshop. So promptly headed back to the room and crashed out.

Sometime in the afternoon, Saravanan brought the first of my room-mates and introduced us. It was Archana and she had come all the way from Delhi (Gurgaon). I was in pretty deep sleep and after a few polite exchanges, I explained that I was unwell and went back to sleep. A couple of hours later, the second of my room mates got in - this was Srividya, from Chennai. Again some minimal exchanges and I was back in the land of dreams. Suddenly, I woke up - it was 4 pm and the room was empty. Ye gods - the workshop was to start at 4 and I had no idea where! I rushed to the office and luckily found Saravanan who updated me that we were only starting at 8 pm ...... gratefully I came back to the room for still more sleeping.

At some point in the evening, my room mates returned and now we had more of a conversation. We all introduced ourselves to each other; there were the usual exclamations of shock over my age (especially when Srividya realized I was older than her mother) and then we headed off to dinner. We met a few other workshop participants over dinner and it was interesting that as we introduced ourselves, it turned out that quite a few people had quit their jobs over the recent past and were "in search of themselves". Tineke joined us over dinner as well and we heard her story of how she'd been travelling over land as a young lady. Having covered north-east India, she came to Auroville for a 2 week stay before heading off to Sri Lanka ..... and that was 31 years ago. Sri Lanka has yet to see Tineke.

We got the opportunity to ask her about how Auroville is governed and were entertained by her tales of how at times, the working committee had to grapple with the childlike behaviour of the locals. Post dinner, we headed to the hall that would be our "classroom" for all indoor sessions over the next one week and had a brief introductory session with Prof Rajagopalan before heading off to our respective rooms

Monday, 5th was when action really began. We started with some slide presentations from the Prof and Alan and were then taken to a farm called Solitude. Our bus was greeted by this bare chested guy wearing a green lungi over shorts and a huge turban a la Swami Vivekanand. I only saw him from the back initially, and was somewhat struck by his dress code. It wasn't till he turned and faced our group to address us that I realized he was English (or Scots since I later discovered he had a scottish last name).

An interesting character - Krishna. He'd studied in the london chapter of the J Krishnamurty school and at some point in life, found his way to Auroville and settled down to farm. For the first time, I heard of Perma farming, Fukuoka, green manure and minimal intervention in farming to extent of avoiding the use of ploughs etc. Was fascinated and made a note to read up further on it. After explaining the concept and walking around some of the fields at different stages of permaculture, we headed over to his open air kitchen-cum-restaurant where we lunched on some of the foods we'd just seen being grown. Unfortunately for you readers who were not there - I was so fascinated, I completely forgot to click any photos during this entire experience! You could however check out Krishna's blog at http://solitudefarm.blogspot.com/

We lunched on varagu upma, dal with pumpkin, banana curry and a salad with chicken spinach, rosella, mosambi, cucumber, papaya - truly yummy! All prepared and served with the help of volunteers who come from all over the world to intern on a farm that practices Fukuoka's principles. Over lunch, we made the discovery that Krishna is a also part of a band (Emergence) that has, on one occasion at least, visited Mumbai to play at Blue Frog. So I promptly asked him the name of his band, so I could tell my friend Rakhi, who, as I described her to Krishna, is such a lover of music that she goes and stands on one toe for 2 hours in Blue Frog, to listen to the music there (you can also listen to Emergence's music on his blogspot). After that hugely filling lunch, we all piled back into the bus to visit Pebble Garden. Another fascinating tale in the making ....

At Pebble Garden, we met Bernard and Deepika who, between the two of them (with no additional labour from staff or volunteers) had transformed an area of some acres (I forget how many). They had barren ground littered with pebbles (hence the name) that seemed to indicate that perhaps a river had once flowed there. Hardly any soil cover since it had all been washed away due to deforestation. They started with identifying the natural contours and water catchment of the land and collecting the small amounts of soil that collected there during the rains. They also imported the Australian Acacia, a hardy plant that grows in inhospitable conditions. With soil collected from small ponds and harvested Acacia, they painstakingly created soil for the garden - creating 12 layers of semi composted leaves + stems and soil before adding a layer of charcoal (created from the thicker branches of acacia) to create a natural habitat for micro organisms to get into the soil,as well as to retain humidity. These layers were raised above ground in "flower beds" created with acacia twig borders. These flower beds were then planted with 21 different kinds of seeds - a good mix of lentils, legumes, etc to enhance bio-diversity. In 3 months, all that had grown was mulched back into the soil (green manure) after first turning over the layers of leaves and soil. This incredibly rich soil was then planted with vegetables, fruit etc.

The focus of farming at Pebble Garden is to collect and propagate the various indigenous varieties of fruits and vegetables that grew all over India before being supplanted by "high yielding", "fast growing" varieties from the "Green Revolution". Hence, very little space (something like 10% if memory serves me correctly) is devoted to farming. The purpose of farming here is seed generation and collection. I missed seeing it, but people in our group spotted a red ladies finger (okra) here while passing - one of the traditionally available varieties that is now endangered due to the Green Revolution

The other key activity at Pebble Garden is afforestation. Here again, the Australian Acacia is usually the starting point, as it propagates easily and is hardy. As other trees are planted, the Acacia seedlings find themselves in the shade, and die out. Thus the Acacia serves to initiate afforestation, but over time, the forest consists of indigenous trees and no Acacias!

I had a huge shift in perception from my visit to Pebble Garden. As an urbanite, termites for me were villains that invade our cupboards and other wooden furniture and destroy them. In Pebble Garden (and probably elsewhere as well), termites are welcomed as aids to bringing soil from deep inside the earth to the surface! In a land denuded of soil, they are welcome helpmates ......

We returned from Pebble Garden exhausted and after dinner in the canteen, headed over to the classroom for our final session of the day - with chairs in a circle, we had a round of introductions. I thought it was a great idea to have the introductions at the end of the day, since we'd all interacted and experienced some degree of bonding through the day, so the introductory round actually served as a sort of rounding off what I had already discovered about some of the people. And then Archana rounded off the day by reciting some beautiful lines from Daffodils

With that, the day ended for all except for the group that had to do the "summarizing of the day" for presentation next morning. Our eager beaver room mate Srividya was in that group, so Archana and I turned in for the night, leaving one light on in the room. We learnt later that they worked till midnight before dispersing, and there were still some finishing touches that needed to be done to the chart! Groan - for someone like me who likes to sleep at 10:30, this was a bad precedent that had been set!





Tuesday dawned with Archana showing me cactii that had bloomed in a hedge just outside the Center Guest House campus. A beautiful sight I'd never seen before, it looked like the brahmakamal or bethlehem lily that I had at home




After that, we headed over for breakfast where there seemed to be a lot of scurrying amidst the presentation group over breakfast. Post breakfast, we headed over to the classroom. Of the entire workshop, this day (in retrospect) was least fun - we had classroom sessions on solar energy and solid waste management,
both by local practitioners, and an open air session just outside our
classroom where Jean-Francois showed us the waste water treatment -activation-dynamisation unit that I had mistaken for a purely aesthetic water body installation!





Post all these, we had lunch in the canteen and got into buses for a visit to Wellpaper - a unit where a women's self-help group uses thin rolled up tubes of paper like cane to fashion decorative bowls, table mats, earrings and other utility items and accessories. Their latest addition is capacious handbags made of Pedigree dog food packaging! Dany, who runs this unit, had an interesting story. she, her husband and kid(s?) were visiting Auroville and were scheduled to return when 2 things happened - her husband had an accident and hurt his leg, so he couldn't travel; and the tsunami hit Chennai. Once the initial chaos had settled down, Dany wanted to leave and never come back, but for some reason, her husband took this as a sign that they should stay on .... and thus was Wellpaper conceived and born


From Dany at Wellpaper, we headed to Luminosity, where an architect called David has created his concept of apartment living in harmony with nature. We first headed to the rear of the building, where a rainwater harvesting tank was under construction - a simple design where a huge pit was dug and lined with LDPE. Rainwater drained from the terrace was piped to an inlet near the top of the pit. The LDPE lined pit was supposed to be filled with sand, but due to the unavailability of river sand, he had to switch to aggregate. This, with its sharp corners would damage the LDPE, so a further geotextile lining had to be introduced to protect the LDPE. At the center of the pit was this stack of concrete rings, that collectively acted as a "well" from which water could be drawn. The rain water collected in the pit would be filtered through the aggregate and sand as it seeped into the "well", as the concrete rings were not cemented together

After seeing the water harvesting feature, we headed to the terrace where a covered terrace provided scope for community living on the terrace, with space on the galvanized steel roof for installation of solar panels, if and when, required. The terrace had 2 gardens at either end, with a washing machine and ironing station marking the laundry area and a communal eating space
on the other side. A floor below, were the apartments. We entered a couple of them through a corridor like structure, with centrally hinged vertical windows running from top to bottom - these could be kept closed in case of strong rains, and angled to any extent to catch any passing breeze and direct it into the apartment. The one room apartment had a central "wall" that did not meet at the ends - when we examined the other side of this "wall", we found it housed a wardrobe and a bathroom-cum-toilet. The single room had a cement platform along one wall, that was used in part for sleeping (the part with the mattress) and in part for sitting. Opposite the "seating" area, was a tiny pantry-kitchen. And that was it. French windows on the wall opposite the entrance provided great cross ventilation when open. The french windows led to a small balcony, where, nestled under a tarpaulin cover, we found a bath, perhaps a jacuzzi!

From Luminosity, it was back to the Guest House for the daily dose of doomsday documentary film, followed by dinner and the last session of the day. Today, the last session was to choose our options for the next day's activities. The options we had were - "Sustainable approach to wellness" which would cover aspects of yoga, pranayama, meditation etc; and Alan's session on "Changing Perspectives" where he warned us, we would be blindfolded! There was supposed to be a third option called somatics, but the lady who usually conducted the session had lost her voice, and so that option was unavailable. C'est le vie - I had never heard this term before and so, one more thing to research after I returned to Mumbai.

Since I already knew something about yoga etc, I opted for the Perspectives option, but when Alan said he could only take 10 people and we were 13 who had opted for it, I dropped out .... and thus ended Tuesday the 6th after another session of poetry from Archana - this time, Tagore's Where the Mind is Without Fear.

Wednesday dawned with Archana's group doing the "journey so far" summarization of the previous day. She too had returned to the room late the previous night, sometime after I'd fallen asleep. This was not looking good for my early to bed practice! They ended their presentation by leading the group in a rendition of Vaishnava Janatu, and as Murali's voice soared above everyone else's, he was persuaded to follow up with a solo rendition as well. Soon after the presentation, the group that had opted to experience the "sustainable approach to wellness" got into buses and headed to Verite - the center where JV carries on his activities.

A quick note about JV describing him in his own words as closely as I can recollect them - he was a Captain in the Indian Navy; a typical type A personality who - when he was in uniform - thought the Navy ran because of him; and when he was out of uniform - believed the world ran because of him. He looked to be in his 60s, when at the age of 41, he had left side pain, sweating and all other classic symptoms of a heart attack. The ship's doctor gave him extraordinary first aid in just a couple of minutes and that saved him! The next day, he was airlifted by helicopter to hospital in Mumbai where he was diagnosed with 4 life threatening conditions - a mitral valve prolapse, Ischemic Heart Disease (IHD), high blood pressure and high blood sugar. As may be expected, he was told to undergo a battery of tests and put on medications that he would then have to continue the rest his life

Having decided that was not an acceptable way of life, he set off on his own journey of discovery - exploring alternative approaches to health - ayurveda, yoga / pranayama, inner healing, Buddhist meditations .....
As a result of all his studies and changed way of life, he now is in his 60s, but looks to be in his 40s and has that same mitral valve that was deemed to have failed 20 years back, has had no surgery and has normal blood pressure and blood sugar. In fact, a man who had been wearing glasses since the age of 17, today, he wears no spectacles whatsoever! He has written his story on his blogspot - http://www.blogger.com/profile/11797285677432532902

Since our workshop was intended only to provide an overview of various aspects of sustainable living, poor JV was told to encapsulate his entire gyan into a 2 hour experiential slot. So he did the best he could to transmit a sense of what is typically done in a week long session in the space of 2 hours. We had short sessions on the use of sounds and vibrations, yoga nidra, relaxation
techniques before a short tea break. Tea break (herbal tea only) was enjoyed with our feet dangling in the fish pond where the fish gave us a pedicure as we sipped our tea. Post the tea break we had further short sessions on physical and emotional self-healing and a final talk on food and diet. On the diet front, all he had to tell us were 5 key precepts to govern our intake - eat with the consciousness that what you are eating is an offering to the inner divinity, chew your food at least 15 times, water is the elixir of life, eat only up to 75% of your capacity and eat at least 50% raw food including sprouts. If you wish to read his blog on the same workshop, you can reach it at http://jv-personalgrowth.blogspot.com/2011/09/sustainable-health-management.html?showComment=1316239670465#c994541459639025287

After this short teaser on the power of mind and emotions over body, we headed back to the guest house where Alan's group (who'd worked on "changing perspectives") refused to divulge anything about their experiences until the full participation post-dinner feedback session! With a lot of good natured grumbling and teasing over this, we finished lunch and were then herded into the bus to visit Sadhana Forest


With multiple people consulting the map and nobody (except Murali) knowing the language, we managed to find our way to Sadhana Forest after a couple of wrong turns. We were greeted by crude but colourful lettering in multiple languages welcoming us.
We were ushered into the office cum assembly hall structure and served some kind of juice to quench our thirst. Then Stephanie briefed us all about the concept behind Sadhana forest. It is an afforestation project run entirely with volunteers. A vegan community, they live as close to nature as possible. Here, I was introduced to the term unschooling - kids are left to learn on their own based on whatever they find necessary to carry on their daily work and play and with whatever teachers they can find to teach them. With a global community, all the kids are multilingual, and I'm sure would never need to be taught "cultural sensitivity" the way IT companies conduct sessions for their engineers before sending them for onsite work!


We then checked out their dry toilet, hand washing and cooking
arrangements before heading off to look at the site itself. For hand wash, organic soap (I've started using aritha solution) is first rubbed onto the palms. then an appropriate quantity of water is poured from a bucket into the suspended lota pictured on the left. Water comes out in a steady stream through the small hole in the lota and the hands are rinsed in this stream of water - no risk of leaving the tap on and going out, leaks / drips and the like!


In the field visit, we heard about the check bunds-cum-access paths, saw the sleeping huts (from where I could quite imagine Ghatotkacha coming out to play!), the planted trees and shrubs and finally the meditation dome they'd built in a somewhat remote corner next to a water body that had been created for rainwater harvesting. Poor Tineke had a tough time herding us back into the bus so that we could (somewhat) adhere to our schedule!

After that it was back to the usual doomsday film at the guest house, followed by dinner and the feedback session. This feedback session was more interesting than most, since each of the groups (wellness and changing perspectives) was eager to know what the other group had experienced. So with some demonstrations and much detail, we tried to bring each other up to speed on what we'd gone through. And then it was time for bed while some people somewhere prepared the "journey so far" charts for presentation the next morning. It was the first time all 3 of us (Srividya, Archana and I) were in the room together before going to bed, so we ended up talking for quite a while before finally switching off the light and crashing out

Thursday's "Story so Far" was conducted in a different manner totally. The group had us empty the room of chairs, and we all lay down in shavasana wherever we could find space. Kultar then guided us through a bit of yoga nidra before making us do an imaginary walk-through of all the previous day's experiences. A refreshing change and an experiential demonstration of what we'd learnt with JV. For documentation purposes, the group had also made a chart depicting everything we'd seen and done and learnt and that was presented as well. This was when Kultar brought out yet another gem - "The Body and Mind are not distinct - the Mind is the subtle Body and the Body is the gross Mind". And after this first session of doing away with chairs, a few of us continued through most of the following days, sitting on the floor, with or without cushions, based on personal comfort levels - made a nice change though, for some, it resulted in a sore backside as well

After the "Road so Far" presentation, the Professor made a couple of presentations on the food situation, body-mind connections and alternative healing before yielding the floor to a quiet, shy lady called Anandi. Anandi spoke about how food was a very good medium that absorbed and transmitted emotions and energy. Hence, the importance of cooking and serving food with love. I loved the concept of food as a medium to spread positive energy and emotions. She then spoke about the importance of eating raw food! The highlight of her session was the end, since the session ended with her serving us a raw food lunch. Before you start imagining a meal of salads, let me tell you the menu - we started with a green smoothie, that had spinach (of some kind), seaweed (I think), mosambi, mango and god knows what else. It tasted very fruity and was really smooth - no pulp or fibre. The main meal had a vadai with vegan 'raita' and bread with hummus, cauliflower 'rice', 'sambar' made from sprouted chickpeas mixed with sambar powder, a banana stem curry and a sprouts salad. Both the vadai and bread were made using the dehydrator. Dessert was a vegan spirulina cheesecake. The cheesecake was made earlier and frozen, but the rest of the meal which served over 25 people, was cooked in its entirety that same morning by about 5 people! The only equipment that was used (and not industrial sizes either, but normal household sizes) was a food processor, a mixer, a juicer and a dehydrator!


After this nice unusual lunch, we again packed into the bus and were taken to Pitchandikulam - a herbal garden. Here, Mr Loganathan spent a good amount of time explaining the Siddha philosophy and system of medicine and how it was passed on from guru to disciple and with no tradition or methodology of documenting it. So work at Pitchandikulam started with capturing and sharing traditional wisdom that existed locally
and then planting the herbal garden / forest. While Mr Loganathan spoke about all this, a smiling lady served us all with a hot clear drink of deep pink colour - something brewed with hibiscus. It was delicious. After the introductory talk, we went around the garden with Loganathan pointing out the special qualities of many of the plants we saw. Savitha (Saravanan's not-quite-4 year old daughter) accompanied us on this trip and we all had a good time


After Pitchandikulam, we returned to the guest house where Alan asked us to form pairs, and we then had an exercise to understand the various roles people play in group working. This was fun as well and after the exercise and drawing the learnings from the exercise, we were then asked to choose from one of 4 topics on which we would work in 4 groups to develop a campaign. I chose to work on food sustainability and ours turned out to be a small group, with Murali, Jenniffer, Smitha Kamath and I. We had a quick session where we each described our ideas about a campaign, and having quickly found we were on similar wavelengths, set about amalgamating our ideas and designing the campaign that we would prepare and present to the other groups the next day.

This was the day I had volunteered for the "story so far" summarization and so after the food sustainability brainstorming, Jenniffer and I headed to the canteen to get together with Nipun and Kultar and agree on what and how to present next morning. Nipun joined us soon enough, but Kultar's group which was working in the canteen seemed to be deep in discussions and it was a while before he joined us. By then, Jenniffer, Nipun and I had exchanged ideas and we had some feeling of what we wished to present next day. When Kultar joined us, we brought him up to speed and he quickly added in his own twists and special perspectives and then, in no time at all, we were discussing how to depict our idea. Kultar started drawing and soon the rest of his group descended on us to peer over our shoulders and offer loud criticisms and suggestions on depictions. So thankfully, Kultar, Jenniffer and I retreated into "hands off manager" mode and directed all these eager-beaver architects with artistic pretensions on what we wanted to depict and how! I must say we ended up with a chart that captured all our ideas ... and everyone's fingerprints as well! We all had great fun doing this summarization.

The surprising thing was that, while earlier groups had worked till midnight on their respective charts, our group was done by about 10:30 pm. Now Hrishi (who was still a student and a hostelite @ JJ in his other life, with the usual hostelite habits) had a problem - he could not sleep till 1 am. So we told him it was 1 am and packed him off to his room. Where we discovered later, he totally disrupted his room-mates schedule (since they were not accustomed to him puttering around in the room that early!), but that was their problem :-).

Friday morning .... we were beginning to realize we'd become a close knit group and that the workshop was heading to a close. A quick breakfast that was interrupted by Rajesh borrowing the room key from me, because he wanted to get the chart papers and sketch pens from the room and I was still in the middle of my 4-course breakfast. By and by, it was time to head to class. We duly presented our summary of the previous day and then got down to our group
work on creating the chart to communicate our campaign plans. We were minus Jenniffer this morning, as she had to go elsewhere. As we worked, Saravanan's kids came and started watching. Lazy as I am, I gratefully looked up from the oil drop I was filling in black, and asked Sajan if he would do the colouring for me. Happily he agreed and when Savitha wanted to pitch in too, made little sections for her, where she could colour and slips in going outside the lines would be not noticeable! Meanwhile, Smitha, Murali and I worked
on other corners of the chart. When it came to drawing a vegetable patch complete with bugs, Sajan examined what i'd drawn as a butterfly and told me in pitying tones - you don't know how to draw butterfly. So of course, I handed over that piece of work as well. I love it when people come and take over my work - let's me be lazy without feeling guilty! All the colour filling in on our chart was done by these two children. So when it came time for us to present, we made the two of them join us in the presentation, and Sajan actually joined in explaining some of the elements

All the groups shared their campaigns, questions were asked, suggestions and constructive criticism was provided and that ended that exercise. Throughout all the presentations, Sajan and Savitha sat in. Sajan seemed to be paying attention, but I had no idea how much he was absorbing. After the waste management group made it's presentation, they were fielding questions, and it was probably getting a bit boring for him. So he suddenly piped up - I want to tell a joke. He was encouraged to go to the front of the room where he took a deep breath and in one breath recited some kind of paragraph, which to be honest, I could not understand. Everyone clapped, he went back to his chair and sat down, and that effectively ended the waste management group's presentation. After all the presentations it was time for lunch

Archana wanted to visit the room before coming for lunch, so she asked me for the key, and that was when we realized we could not find either of the 2 room keys we'd been given. A wild search began and I checked with Rajesh too, since he'd borrowed the key in the morning. While I was at lunch, someone gave me the key; I put it in my pocket and continued with lunch. Suddenly, Viji, Saravanan's wife appeared - someone is locked into Avalon Pink (our room) and needs to be let out! I left my lunch and raced to release Archana and only after we both returned did we realize what had happened. Archana had found a key somewhere and, as was our usual practice, had unlocked the door and left the key in the door while she visited the loo. Rajesh, searching for our lost key, saw the key hanging in the keyhole, and out of the goodness of his heart, locked the door before bringing me the key! So that was our little side drama for Friday


Post lunch, we visited Abha at her unit
that sticks pressed dried flowers and leaves onto handmade paper to fashion them into lampshades, pen holders etc. She has another line, started recently, called Beejika, where they use seeds (and other dried plant parts) to make jewellery, wall hangings etc. Beejika started serendipitously (like so many of the units in Auroville) - they wanted to collect and store some seeds as a conservation measure. As they did this, they realized the seeds were truly beautiful, and so, some plants' seeds have ended up as jewellery!


From here, we went to another unit, where cotton waste from Tirupur was mixed with paper pulp, alum, gum and other
ingredients to make a mush that was laid onto a sieve, dipped into water and then allowed to dry. Sometimes, flowers, sutli, or other natural materials were inlaid into the mush to add to the aesthetics of the paper. Finally, the 'paper' was dried and patterns from the inlaid materials or the flowers / leaves became evident. This cardboard-like material is being supplied to other units within Auroville for fashioning into various items










The pulpy material is also made into beads of various sizes, bowls, urns, coated on wire mesh to
fashion intriguingly spider-web-like lampshades etc. We also saw some material made from banana stem fibres. All in all, a fascinating trip and we realized, only imagination stops us from coming up with more and more ideas. After this, we were to return to the guest house for a free evening, and were given the option of hopping off at the Visitor's Center to indulge in some shopping. I did my first round of gift shopping while some of the others just sat around in the visitors center and enjoyed brownies, tea and an impromptu "free trial" session from Viral (a hypno therapist amongst other things, in his other life)

We walked back from the Visitor's Center to the guest house and now it was really starting to make us feel a bit sad that most people would be departing on the morrow. As we walked back, at one fork in the path, Srividya and Lavanya chose to walk 'the other' path and someone in our group called out "The Road not Taken" after them. To our surprise, in the night's post dinner session, Alan read a segment from Robert Frost's Road not Taken!

We all went to our separate rooms, had a bit of a clean up and then headed to the canteen for dinner. I was perhaps the eighth person in our group to enter the canteen and as I entered
I was loudly greeted and asked to join the same table as the rest at a table designed to seat 6. So chairs were duly dragged from nearby tables and crowding started. As every new person entered the canteen, the process got repeated, until we had 15 people at the table - people were seated on the window sill, I had Savitha balanced on one knee while I held my plate on the other side to eat; Sajan too had joined us after initially refusing. Only when still more people entered and hesitated to join, we finally dragged another table over and had our own depiction of the Last Supper.

As Alan told us later, he'd returned from a teaching session and was quite tired as he headed to the canteen with his little bell, to summon us to class. While quite some distance away, he heard this loud noise of people having a good time, and immediately, his spirits lifted and when he came to the canteen and saw us, his face broke into a smile. We tried to insist he forget his bell and just join us for dinner, but finally, we had to face reality and head back to class for our final post dinner session

This was a lovely session. I would not want to divulge the details, so that if any of you ever participate in a similar exercise, you have no preconceived ideas about it. But it helped each of us enter into a meditative state and examine our deepest desires. An emotionally moving session, conducted with great skill. A few of the participants shared their experiences afterwards, and this sharing too was handled most compassionately. A lovely close to the main part of the workshop - thank you, Alan

We'd volunteered to do a collective "week that was" summary session next day, so the intent was to all head back to the canteen to work on this. Archana and I stopped in between for a bio-break and as we came out onto the verandah to head to the canteen, we could hear Murali's powerful voice singing. With happy smiles on our faces, we headed over to the canteen, where we found people seated on the floor, tables, chairs, everywhere and Murali sitting and singing in the midst of all. He very sweetly took requests, so with Shankara Bharanam, Bhaja Govindam, another song whose title I don't know, Vaishnava Janathu, ending finally with Vishnu Suprabhaatham. What a fantastic voice, he has ... and a lovely spirit to so willingly sing for all of us. Kultar quickly shared his idea of summarizing the week that was - we agreed and all headed off to sleep without a single line being drawn on a chart paper

Next morning, conscience had kicked in. Quite a few people felt we should have something to show on a chart. So quickly, ideas were pooled, worker bees (aka students and architects) were pressed into service, and 2 charts produced. The execution speed and synchronicity were amazing!

And so, we headed into our final half-day of workshop, where the Prof invited Murali to do a live music inspiration session.


Then it was time for the "week that was"we first had the entire group standing for the presentation, and only our 4 facilitators - Prof, Alan, Tineke and Saravanan sitting in the audience section (and perhaps Pravin with his camcorder).

We showed our 2 charts with the current-negative spiral picture and the desired positive spiral picture followed by a group hug around a tree. Unfortunately, Kultar was missing for this portion, as he had some "grahasth" duties to perform before coming to Auroville (as a day scholar, he couldn't make a total break the way most of us had done). Anyway, after holding the group hug for a while, there was a bit of awkwardness as we didn't know how to break it, and Alan spontaneously took over suggesting we chant 3 Oms ... which we did. Just as the last Om died away, Praveen said he would like to lead us in a prayer. And so he led us in chanting Lokah Samastha Sukhino Bhavanthu 3 times, and finally, Jenniffer pointed to the way the trunk of the tree had formed a yoni like structure and the symbolism of our starting new lives from then on. So it was beautiful - in an unplanned spontaneous way, different people took the lead and led us in a lovely exercise.

After this, we headed back indoors and presented a final blank chart sheet depicting our future lives, which we had yet to fill in. So that was the "week that was" summary. For the final few sessions, the Prof presented some rays of hope - good work that was being done by various people in saving the planet, followed by Meera Rajesh (whose husband Rajesh was attending our workshop 'on Her command') who shared her experience in instituting solid waste management in her building (with the intent of slowly bringing the other buildings into the fold). The last session was with Rohit Grover (now rechristened as Rohit Baker, thanks to the lovely bread he would contribute to our morning tea breaks, supplemented by Kultar on two occasions - we were spoiled in this respect), who shared his experience in having 'tyaag-ed' the outside world to come and reside in Auroville for the past 1 year. Rohit had caught my attention during the introduction round itself, when he started off his self-introduction with "I am a nerd". After that, he would attend most sessions and field trips with us, but was in this grey area of not a facilitator and not a participant. So now, we all heard a part of his story.

Finally, Alan had us each write a letter to ourselves, which he undertook to mail to us after 6 weeks (after, of course, spending many happy hours steaming them open and having a good laugh at the contents in the interim ;-D) to remind us of how we intended to restructure our lives to become more sustainable. And with that, it was time to turn in our final feedback sheets and lunch before people started heading back.

But no, there was a general reluctance to disband and so, by general request, Kultar made us a presentation on the uncoventional school he'd been running in Chandigarh. Was really fascinated to hear about the experiment - there was no demarcation of subjects such as "Maths", "Physics" etc the way conventional schools have it. There are topics that are studied, such as structures - which incorporates elements of how forces act, geometry (when depicting plans and elevations) and so on. He also spoke of how conflicts between kids are handled - the presentation showed a clip of two kids beating each other up the way kids do. He pointed out the facilitator sitting in the background, who was not intervening - she was only keeping a watchful eye to ensure the kids did not seriously hurt each other. At some stage, one of the kids ran to her to complain, but she told him they had to handle it between themselves. This was a good learning for life. In a conventional school, some adult would have intervened and the aggressor in the conflict would have learnt his life lesson - if he wishes to bully someone, he should do it where and when there are no witnesses. The victim kid would have learnt his life lesson - that whenever he feels victimised, he should run to an authority figure, and it is then the authority figure's responsibility to resolve the problem. With this non-interventionist approach, the kids resolved the conflict themselves (which is what usually needs to happen in life, but rarely does) and after 2 months, I believe these kids had become great pals! There were other such anecdotes, but I think you'd have got the concept behind the school by now

Lunch was somewhat muted with people mentally switching gears even as they felt sad at the end of a wonderful week and the imminent partings. Murali was probably the first to leave, and the rest of us quickly organized ourselves into various groups. While some departed for Chennai or Pondicherry or elsewhere,
I joined a group that was heading to Swaram - a store that made musical instruments out of natural products. We spent a joyous time there, with the saleslady indulgently watching us play all the instruments they had in the display. Luckily, Devayani bought a couple of items (maybe a couple of other people also bought something) otherwise, we would have totally crowded the display room for a good amount of time, without buying anything! The highlight was these two instruments made out of single blocks of granite. Each was a structure similar to a comb, but a few thousand times thicker than any comb. You wet your hands and the stone and then, as you run your hands along the sides, the 'teeth' of the comb start vibrating and due to the space between the 'teeth', a lovely sound is produced. There were two such instruments outside the display room - one produced a regular sound, while the other produced bass. We all had a go at it - when I tried it, it produced a sound ... but it didn't sound particularly melodious! Obviously takes a lot of practice - like any other instrument

Rajesh, Meera, Smita Pandit and Akshay were to head off directly to Bangalore from there, but they very sweetly insisted on dropping us back to the guest house before turning round in the driveway itself to head off to Bangalore. Rajesh (who was driving) finally messaged me when they reached home - it was 11:30 pm. A long day indeed, and without the group energy to sustain them!

Archana, Parag, Jenniffer and I were to head off to the Ashram (Sri Aurobindo and The Mother's samadhi) in Pondicherry after that. Jenniffer however had joined the group that was visiting Jean-Francois at Aquadyn to understand the water dynamisation process. We waited till 5 pm, and then (since the Ashram closed at 6 pm), we got into the cab, checked out Aquadyn en route to see if Jenniffer could be spotted, and then headed off to Pondicherry.

We reached the Ashram just before 6 and went in past a lovely small cactus garden - did a half parikrama (as prescribed by the ropes and sat for a short while in the space allocated for meditation. May have sat for about 10 mins and as Mr Prabhugaonkar had said, the vibrations were very strong there. After about 10 mins we left from there and headed to the beach where we walked for a while before finding a cafe to wet our whistles and consume some non-organic food.

As luck would have it, there was a band playing right next to the cafe and as we sat we enjoyed the beautiful percussion music coming from next door. By and by, the people occupying the table next to ours left, and the table was occupied by a young boy (maybe 7-8 years old) and an older man, probably in his 20s. The young man was really into the music and swaying his entire body to the music even as he played with the child ... even his mock fight feints were beautifully graceful and in synch with the drums. The kid was very cute, with a lovely smile and was enjoying the whole outing. I could not take my eyes off them - they were so obviously enjoying themselves, I could sense that a smile had broken out on my face. Archana was watching me and asked me if I enjoyed dancing, which made me realize, I was probably bopping my head, or maybe even my entire body, I don't know, in time with the drums! The whole episode just added to the completeness of the joy we were feeling. After our snacks and drinks, we went over to watch the band for a while, and just as we came to the front of the stage (the cafe had been behind the stage), the band members announced that they were going to take a break! So, with an eye on the time, we decided to continue our way and not wait for them

Parag wanted to eat chaat from the beach stall, so after our band disappointment, we headed to the beach stalls where he ate some kind of chaat (not the usual Delhi - Mumbai type) and Archana and I picked up some cauliflower, banana and green chilly pakodas. After feasting on all this for a while, we headed back to the cab and Auroville.

The nice thing about the Pondicherry sea front is that it is closed to traffic. A lovely wide (4 lane) concrete road, with a wide sidewalk, then a sea wall and then the beach. No vehicles. Beautiful french architecture buildings, many of them government offices of various kinds. A good place to come of an evening, but since it was Saturday evening, it was crawling with people

Back at the guest house, it was barely 6 of us left - Smitha Kamath and Safia who were leaving early Sunday morning; Jenniffer, Parag, Archana and I, all planning to leave after an early lunch on Sunday. After a subdued dinner with Tineke joining us, we departed for our respective rooms. As I was changing and washing up, Archana decided to fill water from the canteen and headed out. Suddenly, after about 15 mins, there was a knock on the door. Wondering, I called out and in walked Jenniffer and Archana. They'd met at the water cooler and stood talking for a while before heading to the room so I could be included in the conversation. So we sat around and chatted for quite a while before deciding it was probably a good idea to catch some sleep.

And so, Sunday dawned. Smitha and Safia were to leave by 7:30 am and so we'd promised to meet them at 7 for breakfast. Archana and I quickly washed and headed to the canteen, where we found Smitha and Safia almost at the end of their breakfast. We joined them and then took a fond farewell as they headed to the cab that was taking them to Pondicherry bus station from where they would take a bus to Bangalore. They came back briefly - to ask us to wish Tineke for her birthday which was that day.

Archana and I finished breakfast and were joined towards the end by Parag. Parag's plans had changed during the night - he was no longer heading to Chennai with us to catch a flight to Mumbai. He now had a meeting in Bangalore and so, would catch an evening bus from Pondicherry to Bangalore. With that, the three of us headed for a last stroll in the grounds before heading to Matri Mandir for our visit to the interior chamber. We picked some flowers for Tineke and Archana found some grass to tie them into a crude bouquet and as soon as we spotted the birthday girl, we rushed to give her a hug and wish her. I suspect we embarrassed her a bit in the process ;-)

After this little bit of diversion, Parag, Archana and I headed off to Matri Mandir for our interior visit. Jenniffer was headed there too, but since she was to follow a different process as a repeat visitor, and was planning to meditate in one of the petals rather than in the central chamber, the agreement was that she would make her own way, and the three of us would go without her. We presented ourselves at the designated gate at 8:45 (against a scheduled time of 9 am) and learnt from people waiting there that as we were in the 'B' Group, we would be leaving at 9:30 and not 9. Archana and I found ourselves a nice log and perched on it, while Parag did his usual wandering around thing. In a while, a lady came and told us that we should all head to a specific hall to watch the video. We duly headed to the hall and heard and saw all about the philosophy behind Auroville and the Mother's intent in instituting Auroville and the Matri Mandir

After the video, we formed into a queue and after checking off our names against a list, we got into a bus that took us to Matri Mandir. After a bit of waiting around, when we also turned in our bags, phones and the like, David (?) introduced himself to us and started telling us about how the interior of Matri Mandir was designed as per the Mother's vision, while the exterior, about which she'd received no vision, was conceptualized by an architect called Roget. The entire structure has been built entirely by volunteers - nothing has been contracted out to any engineering or construction firm. Every technical challenge has just remained until Divine Intervention brought the person or persons with the solution to solve it. Thus, the Matri Mandir has been in the making for some 30 or 40 odd years, after work was started in 1968!

The Matri Mandir (I forgot to take pictures, but if you google Auroville Matri Mandir there are lots of images online of both the exterior and the interior) is a huge sphere breaking out from the earth through 12 petals. The external surface of the sphere is covered with concave discs, about 3 feet in diameter. Each disc has its concave surface lined with small tiles (about 1-1.5 inches square) made with Matri Gold. Matri Gold is a thin foil like layer of 24 carat gold fused at high temperature between 2 sheets of glass. So the entire surface of the sphere is a mass of gleaming gold discs with flat lawns around, so that the structure stands out.

The 12 'petals' are each named by the Mother, standing for Existence, Mind, Bliss (Sat-Chit-Anand) and 9 other emotions. The central meditation chamber is located at the equator level of the sphere and is accessed by an interior ramp. The chamber has white marble walls and rises to the top of the sphere where there is an opening through which a sun ray is focused onto a crystal globe kept in the center of the meditation chamber. The floor is covered with white carpet and white cushions are provided for people to sit. You take your footwear off before entering the sphere and at some midway point, you are given white socks to cover your feet (because if peoples' feet are soiled as they often are since we had to take our footwear off whenever we entered our classroom or canteen or even many of the manufacturing units and stores, the carpet gets soiled and is very hard to clean). Before entering the sphere, we'd been told that absolute silence was to be maintained in the meditation chamber and if anyone felt the need to cough or sneeze, they should come out - the spherical marble chamber echoed tremendously

As first time visitors, we were to be allowed to spend 15 mins meditating in the central chamber. After 15 mins, a light would be switched on and off and that was our signal to get up and leave the chamber without disturbing others who were meditating. Repeat visitors were allowed to meditate for 45 mins at a stretch. Repeat visitors were also allowed to choose to meditate in one of the 'petals'. coming back to the central meditation chamber - the only time I really looked at the globe in the center was when entering and leaving. I saw (and we'd been told) the globe rested on 4 'pillars' which had their own significance. Archana, Parag and I spent our 15 mins meditating there, before the light signal told us it was time to leave and with the rest of our group, we silently filed out.

Not all the way out though - through a gap between two of the petals, we entered the lower half of the sphere where again, there was a small crystal globe in the center of a shallow, round water body made of layers and layers of shallow marble petals. Water rippled over these petals to reach the center and obviously there was some kind of circulation mechanism involved that I could not see or hear and did not really try to figure out. As we'd walked up and down the ramp leading to the meditation chamber, we'd noticed these marble channels running along the inner 'longitudes' of the sphere where water was running ... so this water was probably getting somehow circulated along four (or however many) longitudinal channels along the inner walls of the sphere.

After staying here for a bit, we headed out and were shown the amphitheatre that marks the center of Auroville and which is also where the inauguration of Auroville was done in 1968, with representatives of 124 countries and 24 Indian states (as there were then) each bringing a handful of soil from their respective lands to add into a marble urn that stands there still. From here, we went and briefly sat under the sole, majestic banyan tree that stands next to the amphitheatre before heading back to an impatient bus driver who was mumbling about his schedule getting delayed!

We came back to the Visitor's Center where, on Parag's advice, Archana and I checked out the exhibition about Auroville (where I clicked all these pictures - thanx Parag, if it had not been for your advice, I would have had no photos to illustrate this section!), while Parag picked up some books he wanted to take back

We then walked back to the guest house and joined Rohit and Jenniffer for lunch. A quick lunch, where Rohit checked what each of us getting back to, and we envied him his continued stay at Auroville, and then we headed for the cab that was to bring us to Chennai.

That should have been the end of this blog, but there was one further thing I wanted to share. I returned on Sep 11th, which happened to be Anantha Chaturthi, the day the huge Ganapthi idols are immersed in the sea after the 11 day Ganesha festival. I was mildly worried about how I would get home, but as I told Archana when speaking of it before leaving from Auroville - itna sab sahi gaya hai, tho woh bhi sahi jaayega (translation: If so much has gone well, then that too will go well). As passengers disembarked, I could hear people murmuring about the likely unavailability of autos and cabs from the airport and traffic disruption on the roads. I came out and decided to try and get an auto (since I live relatively close to the airport, cabbies grumble when I use them because of their opportunity cost in losing a long distance fare when they take me; and autos often demand cab fare because they feel that is what I would have 'otherwise' taken - the logic of which escapes me, but use of public transport when I return from the airport, is always a fraught affair).

Anyway, people were breaking the queue and walking ahead to accost approaching autos and corner them before the auto could ever reach the head of the queue and after observing this for a while, I started muttering under my breath about all the uncivilized people I was coming back to and started doing the same. After something like 10 refusals by both cabbies and autos, I finally found an auto who agreed to take me home for Rs 100 (normal fare is probably something between Rs 40 and 60, depending on traffic conditions).

I quickly agreed and hopped in, and as we came out onto the main road -wonder of wonders - the road was empty and we sped along at great speed and comfort. I only encountered a single Ganapathi procession the entire way - at Khar subway - and even there, I was delayed maybe a couple of minutes, no more. I'd checked the time when our plane touched down on the tarmac - it was 8:11 pm. I reached home at 9 pm, after all the waiting for a bay, waiting for the stairs and a bus, the scramble for an auto (I had no check in luggage) .... I don't think I've ever made it home so speedily and comfortably, and all I could think was - the positive vibrations of Auroville continue!